The Trigger is made by gluing the two Trigger Hooks (with their angled edges facing toward each other) to the top of the Trigger & Hook Panel, and gluing the Trigger itself to the bottom. The Disconnector will eventually go between them, but it won't be glued in place. In fact, the Disconnector should have a little spring attached in the little nook. The bar sticking out behind it should be longer than the bars sticking out behind the trigger hooks.

The Hammer has a flat, semicircular part attached where hatching indicates. It also has two tubes (Spacers) on either side of it, which are meant to keep it centered and prevent it from moving side to side. It's especially important that you make sure the holes all line up, and, if necessary, smooth them out, to create a neat tube.

There are three pins. The Hammer pin is double-layered, because it will be under slightly more stress.

Notes on design:
A real AKM has only a one-hook trigger, and has a Rate Reducer on one side instead of the second hook. All the rate reducer does is offer another set of hooks to regulate the hammer's movement and make it more precise. For the purpose of sturdiness, the rate reducer is replaced with a two-hook trigger on this model.

The extended bar on the back of the disconnector is what provides automatic capability, because it's possible for the selector to unlock the trigger while keeping the disconnector held down.

For the purpose of space economy, we are also not modeling the auto sear, which would be positioned in front of the hammer, and would hold hammer in place until the bolt completes its motion, preventing out-of-battery discharges. It extends alongside the magazine, which is why it would cause problems in this thick-walled model.